Hello To All,
1st and foremost thanks to all who helped me with previous questions and posts you guys are the best.  I am back once again with yet another question about the clutch in a 83 320i how long typically (estimate of course) do they last?  I have 145K originally miles on mine now and a lot of parts are originally so I am wondering here when have you other 320i owners seen the clutch going bad please advise me here?  I know it is now displacing signs of wear i.e. the clutch pedal having to go up higher in the air before you let out gear another forums said this was a sure sign of the clutch disc plate becoming too thin.  However my question is this how do I know when to change it as everything is okay and fine as far as driving and shifting the car/clutch.  So I don't want to pay someone to put a new clutch when the old one is still working okay/fine hence why I need some help/advice on here as to when you guys (previous/current 320i owners) have seen the clutches go bad and wear out what mileage.   Please advise with any info or help on this topic I appreciate it much.
Dave

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Dongguan JIAJUN ACCESSORIES MANUFACTORING CO.,LTD
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exhaust system, exhaust pipe ,exhaust muffler

I've have a 93 318is and my throw out bearing went out at about 165k miles. I knew it was going bad because any time I pressed the clutch it squealed and made grinding noises. I replaced it with a full clutch kit from Sach's and not a moment too soon. The bearing fell apart in my drive way! The job itself isn't too bad if your pretty car savvy. Just get it up on some jacks nice and high so you can work on it easier. Everything underneath has to come out (exhaust, heat shields, drive train and tranny obviously) Free the top end of the transmission from the shift linkage and remember how it goes back together. This was probably one of the trickiest parts. Get a jack under the back end of the transmission to help support, and lower it as necessary. There are a series of E-torx bolts so make sure you have a good set of E-torx sockets. You'll need a looooonnngg extension and an impact gun probably to break them all loose. Once you drop it it should be easy to figure out. Pay careful attention to the alignment of the pressure plate when it slides out and make sure the new one goes in the same way. Don't let the fly wheel drop either because they're usually made of aluminum and can crack easily. Replace the rear main seal with a quality one, as it started leaking like crazy and I had to go back and do the whole job twice thanks to a faulty part. Once you go back together MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A PROPER SHAFT ALIGNMENT TOOL! Don't get a cheap one, its a waste of time (an extra week for me) and make sure to torque all the bolts back to specifications. After that bleed the clutch and you should be good to go. It will be well worth the time! It shortened my pedal and shifts smooth as butter now!